Leone's Rome

[daylami]

Just returned from a wonderful trip to Rome and the highlights being a superb meal at Checco Er Carettiere at 10 Via Benedetta,Trastevere and Via Glorioso about one mile from the restaurant.The restuarant is aknowledged as the favourite of Sergio and Ennio.The restaurant is as it was in the days when Sergio patronised it.It can only be decribed as like stepping back in time,it is very much still a bit of the 1960's.The school picture of 1937 featuring Leone and Moriconne together with the restaurant owner(Francisco Porcecci) all featured is still displayed together with a 40yr reunion photograph.We were inormed by staff that the restaurant is still in the same ownership and Ennio still eats regularly at the restaurant.We were also informed that Leone's children still visit their fathers favourite eating establishment.The restaurant is a must visit for fans when in Rome and is highly recommended,we had a fabulous meal.It is not on the tourist trail and is very much a regulars haunt,be warned you will need to book.
We also walked about a mile to Via Glorioso and saw the plaque in recognition to Sergio on the side of the last block of flats on the right hand side as you walk up the the streat from the Trastevere.It is a tree lined,quiet suburban street with several apartment blocks in a comfortable area of the city,well worth the visit.The plaque has an inscription as follows;-

IL MIO MODO DI VEDERE LE COSE
TALVOLTA E' INGENUO,UN PO' INFANTILE
MA SINCERO
COME I BAMBINI DELLA SCALINATA
DI VIALE GLORIOSO

SERGIO LEONE

+ s.p.q.r.   1999


iF ANYONE CAN TRANSLATE i WOULD APPRECIATE.

[roberti]

The Italian guys of this website will translate that for you. You could get Once upon a time Sergio Leone, a stunning documentary that is in the extras of Once upon a time in America:it is ending with this quotation.

[Leone Admirer]

That sounds like you had a great time. Here's a rough translation (I'm not Italian

MY WAY TO SEE THINGS (IS) INGENUOUS, SOMETIMES, INFANTILE BUT SINCERE  LIKE the CHILDREN Of the PERRON OF (THE) GLORIOUS TREE-LINED AVENUE

SERGIO LEONE s.p.q.r. 1999

Did you get to see Cinecitta? I was supposed to have done some work for them late last year but it fell through  . I would love to see the props and also Fellini's office.

[daylami]

Thanks for your response gents it is much appreciated and especially for the translation.Unfortunatley we did not see the Cinecitta but that will be the number 1 priority of our next trip to the eternal city.[My Belly's Full]

[Juan Miranda]

Wow, I know Via Benedetta very well, as an ex-girlfriend of mine is called Benedetta and her dad lives in Rome. We used to always joke about that street when we were in town. I wasn't aware of it's Leone/Morricone connection though. My own fave restaurant in the city is Giggetto's, just over the Ponte Cestio in the old ghetto quarter.

I keep meaning to start a thread on the importance of food and drink in Leone's movies, but haven't got round to it yet...

[The Peacemaker]

I keep meaning to start a thread on the importance of food and drink in Leone's movies, but haven't got round to it yet...

I think there was already a thread like that here. I don't really remember. You do have a point though. It seems like every Leone movie has at least one scene where someone is eating or drinking. I suppose it came from Leone's infamous appetite.

[Juan Miranda]

So I was in Rome again a couple of weeks ago, during the heaviest snowfall in 25 years, and had a chance to take in a couple of Leone associated sites. Sadly I didn’t get to eat in Checco Er Carettiere but I did pass by a couple of times.


Via Benedetta




Checco Er Carettiere


Osteria entrance


Restaurant entrance


After dark

A short walk away is Viale Glorioso, not just a place but the title of the 19 year old Leone’s first (autobiographical) screenplay.


Viale Glorioso from Viale di Trastevere

The Leone plaque is attached to a rather drab building at the top of the street.





My Italian ex provides this elegant translation,

“My way of seeing things is at times naive, a little childlike, but sincere, as the children of the steps of Viale Gloriuso.”

And here are the Tambourine steps





One odd thing I’ve never read mentioned about the street is what struck me most about it. Apart from the flight of stairs it is dominated by a gigantic, palatial government building, the Ministry of Education. I found one more “Leone” in its baroque decoration.

[dave jenkins]

 

[cigar joe]

ditto 

[Juan Miranda]

No idea where to put this, so let's open up the topic to Leone's Italy. I was in Milan last week and spotted this wonderful piece of street art/vandalism depending on your point of view, on Via Scaldasole.





The text is Mallory's "If you shoot me down, they will have to change all the maps" line.

[cigar joe]

nice find

[dave jenkins]

 

[Juan Miranda]

Was in Milano again last month and the tutte le mappe piece has been painted over.

[Groggy]

Awesome Mr. Miranda! Good to see you're still alive.