Fashion in Leone

[marmota-b]

They claim that these came out of fashion after 1850's...

All info subject to change due to additional research... A new pair of lacy mitts showed up on that site, and this one's from circa 1900. Therefore, OUATITW is right. Ha!

[marmota-b]

All info subject to change due to additional research...

Indeed.
While searching through my now awfully huge collection of images of historical fashions I had found online, I stumbled upon two similar dresses from 1840s - this is one of them:
http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_of_Art/collection_database/the_costume_institute/dress/objectview.aspx?OID=80077564&collID=8&dd1=8

And here's the other one - I'm unable to figure out where I got this one from.

(EDIT: it's from the Tasha Tudor collection: http://cwhitaker.co.cc/whitakerauction.com/index.html?Tudor_auction.htm~MainFrame)



They're similar to Jill's black and white dresses, aren't they? The necklines, the smocked/gathered/pintucked sleeves, the shape of the skirt. Only the tails on the back of Jill's white dress don't seem to fit the style:





(I changed the brightness/contrast of this one to bring out the sleeve detail.)

[cigar joe]

yea it looks close.

[marmota-b]

Of course, there's a difference in fabric. Those antique dresses are made from a stiffer fabric, so the gathered parts have a different texture. But otherwise it's really similar.

And another dress from the Met. I cannot see the sleeves, but the overall lines are very similar to the black travelling dress, the shawl included.
And this one (on the right). Even worn with lace mitts.
And these two paintings:
http://www.abcgallery.com/F/fedotov/fedotov29.html
http://www.abcgallery.com/F/fedotov/fedotov12.html

Really, I think I can safely assume those two dresses are 1840s style. Only the dresses, not the hat or hairstyles.

[marmota-b]

Sometimes, "the audience that cares more about sets and costumes than useless notions such as story, characters or cinematography" (thanks for the phrase, noodles_leone!) can be useful in digging up things... (Oh, I like costumes, too. Otherwise I wouldn't be writing this thread. It's just that there are more important things about a film...)
Thanks to one such site, I've just found these fantastic photos of one costume from OUTIA:
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/flash-gallery/load/c-era-una-volta-in-america/bigimage/1.jpg
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/flash-gallery/load/c-era-una-volta-in-america/bigimage/2.jpg
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/flash-gallery/load/c-era-una-volta-in-america/bigimage/3.jpg
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/flash-gallery/load/c-era-una-volta-in-america/bigimage/4.jpg
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/flash-gallery/load/c-era-una-volta-in-america/bigimage/5.jpg
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/flash-gallery/load/c-era-una-volta-in-america/bigimage/6.jpg
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/flash-gallery/load/c-era-una-volta-in-america/bigimage/7.jpg
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/flash-gallery/load/c-era-una-volta-in-america/bigimage/8.jpg
Naturally, I'm saving them all on my computer... in case they disappear from the net again, and for my pleasure and researching convenience.
I haven't seen the film in ages, so I'm not quite sure which one it is. But I suppose it's the picnic on the beach one. Am I right?
And I wish I could get such great, detailled photos of Jill's costumes, too - or any other costumes from Leone's films, for that matter. Sometimes the details are the most interesting parts about a costume... for example, to see if they were using some period techniques for them to ensure a historically accurate impression, or just quickly threw them together and went more for the overall impression. I find this especially interesting in combination with attempts at historical accuracy in other things.
Also, there are costumes from other films as well - like this dress from The Legend of 1900:
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/flash-gallery/load/la-leggenda-del-pianista-2/bigimage/1.jpg
The skirts are suspiciously similar. It's not the same costume designer, though. I guess this stems from them both being inspired by one fashion designer, Madeleine Vionnet, who was extremelly popular (and widely copied) in 1920s-30s. I remember seeing some petal-shaped skirt designs by her.

[marmota-b]

OK, searching further... the company, Tirelli, worked not only on OUATIA, but also DYS:
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/index.php?option=com_sobi2&catid=8&Itemid=14&limitstart=320
http://gestore.bestnetwork.it/test/tirelli/index.php?option=com_sobi2&catid=8&Itemid=14&limitstart=220

[cigar joe]

cool stuff thanks Jill

[marmota-b]

cool stuff thanks Jill

...Marmota...
I'm glad that I've found a field of research nobody else was reasearching here.

[cigar joe]

That was a Freudian slip, lol. Sorry Marmota-b 

[marmota-b]

There IS a Jill on this board, so don't confuse us!

[cigar joe]

I know but i was thinking of Claudia actually, what with the dress and all particularly the white one.

[marmota-b]

Explanation accepted.

[Dust Devil]

This is a very interesting and instructive topic from our diligent marmota. We'll make it sticky.

[marmota-b]

Oh, thanks, now I won't have to search for it anymore when I want to add a thing a year later again.

[marmota-b]

Just to illustrate the discussion of Jill's not-mourning dress... This is something she should have worn, and later in the mourning period for that matter:
http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/the_costume_institute/mourning_dress/objectview.aspx?page=34&sort=0&sortdir=asc&keyword=&fp=31&dd1=8&dd2=62&vw=1&collID=62&OID=80097085&vT=1
Not that I mind her not wearing it.